A concise assortment of themes are presented in women’s wear for FW 14/15. The most prevalent is Tomboy – a continuation of androgynous looks. Retro remains influential, with Film Noir heroines in 50s. Collections continue to feature an abundance of sportswear, but this season Cubist influence brings in linear graphic motifs. With Baroque inspiration still fresh in mind, an opulent Regal theme filled with luxe materials and jewel tones is popular. Folk nods to the free-spirited Bohemia, while Sleepwalkers promotes pajama dressing.
The 50s remains an influential decade, recognizable by ladylike fit and flare silhouettes. Prada is a key reference, as well as Rochas, Unique, Antonio Marras and Ports 1961. While full skirts, skirt suits and boxy jackets are common, British labels Jonathan Saunders and Roksanda Illincic add newness to the trend by applying futuristic applications of PVC, making the retro reference more modern and slightly futuristic. Pastel hues also lighten the mood. Menswear material favorites like tweed and wool felt are utilized, and belted silhouettes are a common accent.
Cubist follows Fashion Snoops’ Ultramodern trend from last season and also confirms our Formula = Solution Visionary forecast. Key designers include Helmut Lang, Narciso Rodriguez, Issey Miyake and David Koma. The theme combines two primary elements, minimalist sportswear with a futurist edge. A monochromatic color palette carries forward and stripes and lines are a key pattern focus, including fractured geometrics and optical illusions.
One of the newest ideas to emerge for Fall / Winter 14/15 is the notion of pajama influence. Marc Jacobs first featured the theme, which was replicated on the runways of Missoni, Rochas and Max Mara. Pajama pants, tops and robes are essential pieces, set to fluid satin and silk charmeuse. Whimsical patterns like ditsy florals add to the boudoir sentiment.
Parisian labels like Balmain and Emanuel Ungaro dip back into the opulent 80s for Fall / Winter 14/15. Broad statement shoulders signal the most defiant silhouette direction, while high waist carrot shapes make a comeback on pants. Metallics and embellishment speak to the decade’s excess and dots and optical geometrics drive the pattern conversation.
Folk provides a younger approach to Bohemia in womenswear. The influence is most celebrated at Matthew Williamson, Mara Hoffman, Suno and Valentino. A rich assortment of print and pattern options includes tapestry and patchwork motifs. While silhouettes can be ultimately modern, items like the dirndl skirt have a prairie feel.
Forecast Courtesy: Fashion Snoops
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